The joint barely seats six but it's said to be the most radical restaurant in New York, as they've stripped the dining experience to core values. (Maybe it's time to go vegan after all? Though the food is good enough for meat-eaters.) Served in paper, the eats are plain fun: like the cheese steak made with tofu skins and a sugary sweet potato with an inspired relish of chopped pickles, serranos and tarragon. The only drink sold is Arnold Palmer, and desserts rotate, one notable entry was a date-shake gelato and tangerine sorbet with toasted coconut in a paper cup, worth more than the $4 it costs.
Defined as a medium-fast-food outfit, it's more interesting than expected from the definition, the menu may change in the middle of your meal, and the swing-down desktops carry juicy delights.